Forsythia - Arnold Dwarf

$18.95

I am not an advocate for killing off insects and pests. They actually play a role in a health planet. So please do not over spray your yard with fertilizer. Not to mention the deer and other critters that eat the grass when you are not looking.

Keeping destructive insects to a minimum is now easier than ever. Thanks to innovative biologists and chemists, there are a dozen safe ways to control damaging insects.

The first step is to correctly identify what kind of insects you have or are likely to get. There are thousands of common species, but typically only a handful do most of the harm in any given area. These can often be identified in one or more of three ways.

You can check the leaves of your plants, flowers and shrubs and match them against photos you can find online. If you search for information about the specific plants you’re worried about you’ll quickly find the most common pests. Accompanying that information is frequently a photo you can use for comparison.

Many times, though, insects on flowers, trees, grass and other plants are hidden. In that case you can rely on a guess and apply control methods based on the common invasive species. Aphids frequently infest rose bushes, for example, and can be difficult to spot. Grass often has grub infestations that could only be visually detected by careful inspection underneath the soil.

Another method is to examine the effects.

If you find large, roughly round, brown spots on grass - especially in late Spring through Summer - you probably have a Japanese Beetle grub problem. There can be other causes, double check your guess by the previously listed methods. If you find that patches of grass pull away easily from the soil like carpet that has come loose from its tacks, you probably have a grub problem.

Once you identify the species that is causing the problem, eliminating it is usually safe, inexpensive and easy using modern control methods. That doesn’t necessarily mean purchasing and spraying large areas with chemicals, though many today are designed to be perfectly safe for humans and the environment.

Instead of using grub killing fertilizer or insecticide, for example, you can use biological control methods. These are becoming more popular and more effective all the time. A substance called ‘milky spores’ can be a very cost effective way to control grubs in lawns.

Initially biological control may be more costly than a bag of grub insecticide. A 30lb bag of grub killer may cost $10 and last two years where a 1-liter bottle of milky spores may be $30 or more, but it lasts for 10 years. The substance works well because it actually contains living organisms that invade the grub larvae and interrupts their growth cycle. In effect, you have one organism killing another. But the spores do no harm to your lawn, only to the grub.

There are many other biological control methods, each tailored to attack a specific problem. They have to be, since organisms are fairly particular about what insects they will invade and when. But you’ll find them safe, cost effective and frequently longer lasting than chemical methods.

You can always fall back onto chemical insecticides when needed, too. Modern insecticides have become very sophisticated, frequently decaying from the environment safely and quickly into harmless byproducts. At the same time, they do the job before fading away.

Tulip - Fringed - Maja

$9.95

When planting, be sure to dig down about six to eight inches, then lay down a little fertilizer at the base of the hole. It can also be dusted with insecticide at this time to keep larvae and other pests at bay.

Though it’s generally only important when potting, a gardener that wants to influence the direction of roots and flowers should plant the bulb in a desired orientation. The flat side of the bulb is the portion that tends to produce the flower. The more rounded side ejects the roots.

If you’re planting very close to rocks or a border with a fence that has underground stakes at the bulb’s depth, it can be helpful to heed this. Though few gardeners would think to do otherwise, be sure to plant the bulb with the pointed end up. It’s possible for tulips to grow to the surface anyway, but pointing down makes it much harder.

Plant the bulbs in the fall, when evening temperatures have dropped below 50F/10C. Naturally, this isn’t the usual time of year for gardeners to be planting new plants. But tulip bulbs are never fully dormant. They spend the winter creating starches and sugars internally that will be used by the developing plant the following spring. They’ll also produce a root system until the weather turns truly cold.

That activity is one of the reasons the onion-like layers on a tulip bulb are so important. They help the bulb retain moisture that is essential for that development process. Take care not to damage these outer layers when handling the bulb.

An alternative method is to place the bulbs in soil in a pot, then refrigerate the assembly for a few weeks or months. This can work and may be necessary for some climates where the winters never get cold. But it’s a second-best solution if the ultimate plan is to grow tulips in the garden.

It’s more commonly used for a procedure called ‘forcing’, in order to produce tulip flowers in the winter. That method does work quite well, but the goal in that case is different.

Apart from some modest watering, about once per week in the spring when temperatures begin to rise around mid-March (assuming nature doesn’t supply it), very little care is required. A bit of weeding, some modest disease and pest control, and the tulip does all the rest of the work. What gardener could ask for more?

Most tulips have a relatively short flowering period, though, so expect them to wilt after two or three weeks. But, oh, those two weeks! What beauty! After it passes, just deadhead the remains by pinching off the head and let the foliage die back naturally.

Bush Honeysuckle - Butterfly

$17.95

You will of course notice that we did not say ‘Eliminate Weeds Forever’. Dream on.  But like any problem, weeds can often be brought down to manageable proportions.

The first step is to start with as free a plot as possible.

That means, if you’re planting a new lawn you should take steps to start the soil off right. Lay down some weed killing material, then wait the appropriate amount of time before planting seed. How much time depends on what and how much you lay down. Follow the directions. Then, use seed that is as weed free as possible.

That kind of seed is often more expensive and when you have a large area to cover there can be a great temptation to save money by using a less expensive type. One major reason those types are less expensive is that they have not been through a weed cleansing routine at the factory. As a result, they will produce more weeds (along with the grass) than the better type.

For you, that means more time and money spent trying to eliminate weeds later. That’s not a good trade off. You’ll spend more money and more weekends fighting weeds. Use the best seed possible. It’s cheaper in the long run and your back will thank you too.

In garden areas or small areas of lawn, you can lay down a weed control fabric. These are lightweight pieces of cloth (usually black) that help minimize weeds. They reduce the amount of heat and sunlight that reaches the soil underneath the cloth. They also provide a physical barrier that will discourage some types of weed from poking through.

Weed control fabric comes in rolls of various widths. Choose according to your needs, but keep in mind that they can be cut to any width and length desired. Once laid down, you put (weed-free) soil on top of them and plant in that soil.

If you already have a lawn or garden you can control weeds effectively by the use of a pre-emergent herbicide. That phrase is just a fancy way of saying that the chemical kills weeds in the seed stage, before they sprout.

That’s helpful for two reasons. One, it allows you to avoid having to pull or spray them after they’ve grown, when they are stronger and more annoying. It also helps keep the population down, since they don’t have a chance to grow underground root systems and pop up everywhere. The more they mature and spread underground, the harder they are to control.

With many types of weeds, you’ll find (though some experts disagree) that pulling them does help reduce the current and future populations. As you pull them, if you get enough of the root, grass can fill in and out compete them for water, soil nutrients, space and sunlight. That gives you a good looking area and helps prevent their reoccurance later.

Sometimes, as in the case of dandelion infestations for example, the simplest way to deal with the problem is either spot or large scale spraying. Spot spraying is preferable, since it generally costs less, takes less time and avoids the possibility of damaging grass and other plants. But, there may be circumstances where a broad spray is your best bet.

Weed maintenance is an ongoing project, but small and consistent efforts can keep the problem to livable size.

Zoysia Grass Plugs

$31.95

These two work together to give your lawn everything it needs from you. The rest it gets for itself. Even these, of course, may be supplied in other forms or from other sources, depending on the soil and climate.

One of the most common difficulties in proper lawn care is how much and when to apply either of these. To overcome those problems, though, is relatively simple.

If you live in an area where there is regular, ample rainfall during the non-winter months, there is little you can or need to do. It’s impractical to try to control the amount of rainwater a lawn receives, in most cases. The only important and possible step you can take is to ensure there is adequate drainage. Make sure that any spots in your lawn where excessive water can collect have a drain.

That drain can take any of several forms. You can have a literal drain - a grate-covered pipe that is kept free of leaves and dirt. That will allow excess water to flow out to the street or into a pond or other area. That can be helpful even if sprinklers are your primary source of water for the lawn.

Other drain styles are possible, and sometimes preferable. If, for example, you have a very large yard - say, one that is part of a large rural property - but have areas where water collects, a shallow ditch is often good enough. That can be made more attractive and functional by lining it with small pebbles.

The ideal solution in all cases is to have a yard design - best implemented when the house is first constructed, whenever possible - that slopes away from the house continuously. That keeps water from building up near the house - which protects your home foundation and basement.

It also is good for the lawn, since water will flow more or less evenly over the entire surface. It will then drain off the lawn into side areas. Those side areas could be partly garden, which makes watering the garden less of a problem. Or it may simply go off into rocks or the street.

When you don’t get sufficient rainfall a sprinkler system is, of course, the easiest solution to supplying water. In warm climates, during Spring and Summer, 15 minutes per day is usually best - but not necessarily every day.

If you live in truly hot areas, 15 minutes per day every day is good. If you live in a more moderate climate, 15 minutes per day every other day or less often is preferable. Automatic sprinkler systems that allow you to set the length and days of watering are the easiest solution of all.

Some even allow you to set different days of watering for up to two weeks. Then you can water on Monday one week, but Tuesday the next. Absolute regularity isn’t necessarily the best thing for your lawn.

Water very early in the morning when possible, not the evening. This avoids having water on the lawn overnight where it contributes to the growth of harmful plant and insect life.

Avoid watering in the middle of a hot day. Even though it looks as if the lawn could use it, it causes the grass leaf pores to open (when it is trying to conserve water) by cooling it down. This leads to it evaporating even more water than it absorbs, counteracting your intention. In some cases, it can lead to burning when water droplets focus sunlight onto the grass leaf.

My Hero

$13.95

Blackspot is easy to recognize in its latter stages, but might not be noticeable in the beginning. In fact, by the time blackspot starts showing signs, as few as 3 to as many as 10 days have already passed since the fungus first germinated. The first visible symptom is black-colored spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, a yellow ring forms around the black spots and the spots spread through to the underside of the leaves. Spore-producing spots will be visible upon close examination. The black spots will continue to grow and soon the entire leaf may turn yellow. Many of the yellowed leaves will begin falling off the bush.

Blackspot is a fungus and as such, it spreads. It’ll easily jump from one bush to another for as long as it’s left untreated. The fungus can survive on the fallen leaves through the winter, and also on the cane where it has been infected so growers cannot rely on the harsher weather to kill it.

Like most fungi, Blackspot thrives in warm, moist environments. Spores will germinate after 7 hours of being wet and when the ambient temperature is between 65 F (18 C) and 75 F (24 C). The warmer the weather, the quicker the disease spreads.

Proper care of your roses is the only way to prevent this disease from developing or spreading. Since spores can survive on fallen leaves, it’s crucial during the fall season to rake up and remove all dead leaves from the ground and cut away any infected canes. In the spring, when roses are still dormant, head to the nursery and purchase wettable sulphur and a soap containing fungicide and then spray all rose bushes thoroughly with both. The spores cannot adhere to the sulphur, so the leaves are protected whenever they’re covered. Because the sulphur will wash off in rain it’s important to reapply whenever necessary.

The fungus needs a wet environment for germination, so take extra care to keep the leaves moisture-free. For example, plant roses in sunny locations as opposed to shady places so that the morning dew evaporates more quickly. Use sprinkler hoses when watering so that only the roots get watered and not the leaves. Water early in the day, so there’s plenty of time for water to evaporate. Prune the bushes regularly so that air can flow freely among the leaves and be sure to allow plenty of space between bushes for the same reason.

When roses exhibit symptoms of Blackspot, first cut away affected parts and throw clippings in the trash, not the compost pile (remember the fungus on leaves won’t die). Then spray all the leaves with sulphur.

If given a bit of tender loving care, your roses will produce beautiful flowers year after year!

Coneflower - Sunset

$24.95

Sometimes you will need to care for your plants by transplanting them. Transplanting is always tricky, but sometimes the health of your plants requires it. Different plants are best transplanted at different times of year, so no ‘one-size-fits-all’ strategy is possible. But there are some general guidelines to go along with specific recommendations.

Try to make sure the plant activity is at a minimum before undertaking to transplant it. Flowers in the full bloom of Spring or Summer are performing a needed function for the plant at the same time they supply you with beautiful color. Try to avoid interrupting that natural growth cycle.

Many perennials, for example, do better when transplanted in late Summer. August and early September (in the Northern Hemisphere) are the best months for digging up, dividing and re-planting. But these periods can also still be quite hot, so take care. Be sure to water the plants well the day before planting to let them soak up plenty of moisture.

Carefully remove the soil from the surface around the plant, in a circle about one foot in diameter. Then, slant down and repeat the procedure until you’ve cleared earth away from the roots. Take precautions not to cut through the roots with your trowel as you remove the dirt. For some perennials it’s a good idea to tie them gently to a slender stake during the procedure to prevent them falling over or cracking.

Once you’ve cleared the soil away from the roots, gently lift the plant from the base, while balancing the top if necessary. You want to remove the plant in one smooth motion all at once. Avoid stressing the central portions. Then, shake the base gently and wash away any large clumps of soil still stuck to the roots.

Re-plant in a similar sized hole that has been watered. Allow the water to settle before inserting the new plant, place it, then fill with earth and the appropriate amount of fertilizer for your type of plant. Depending on the type of plant, this can be accomplished with compost, manure-based fertilizer or pellets mixed into the soil.

Be sure to place the plant at the same depth as it was removed from. If some portion of the roots for that plant were above or near the surface, that’s the right level to place the transplanted plant at. Burying them too deep makes it difficult for some to get the right amount of air, heat and moisture.

Avoid performing the procedure in direct sunlight. Wait until the evening hours, or carry it out early in the morning, unless the day is very overcast. It’s also best, both for you and the plant, to avoid transplanting when the temperature is very high.

Be sure to water the transplanted plant well after you have it firmly in place.

Different plants, such as vegetables, will do better by transplanting at different times of the year. Find out which is best for your particular one before transplanting. Transplanting is stressful for almost every growing plant, so check the details to maximize the chances of recovery.

UC Verde Buffalo Grass Plugs

$42.95

These two work in cincert to give your lawn everything it needs from you. The rest it gets for itself. Even these, of course, may be supplied in other forms or from other sources, depending on the soil and climate.  Consider waterwise lawns, such as Buffalo grass that don’t require as much watering as Kentucky Bluegrass does.

One of the most common difficulties in proper lawn care is how much and when to apply either of these. To overcome those problems, though, is relatively simple.

Scotts and other commercial fertilizer makers have special preparations, with directions that show you how and when to apply the contents. Following the directions is about the simplest method for application.

Take care, though, to factor in specifics about your circumstances. Be sure to check the weather forecast for the upcoming 48 hours after the day you plan to apply. Some mixtures work best if they’ve been leached into the soil by a couple of hours of light rain or 15 minutes of sprinkler watering. Others will be washed away or diluted by that.

Applying the Spring fertilizer is best done as early as possible in the season. Clearly, if you live in an area where snow is still on the ground in May, you can’t properly apply the compound with a spreader. But getting it down as early as possible has several benefits.

New seeds laid down the previous Fall will be starting to germinate. Giving them that additional assistance early will help them gain the most advantage over competing plants like crabgrass or weeds. Feeding early also helps when the mixture contains (as it frequently does) compounds which help fight lawn insects.

Japanese Beetle grubs and other insects destroy lawns. Most of them do this by feeding on the roots as the young shoots are sprouting when the insects are still in the larvae stage. Once they’ve begun that process, if not stopped right away, your lawn in that area is dead for at least that year.

Rarely will you be successful even replanting the same year, since the damage doesn’t usually show up until later in the Spring or early Summer. By that time, the infestation is advanced. Sometimes it will take two or three years for the lawn to fully recover. Head the problem off by laying down grub-killing fertilizer before you even know you have a problem. These are sometimes called pre-emergent herbicides.

Fertilizers can be overdone, though, so exercise caution. Applying them too frequently or during hot weather can burn your lawn. Most contain the proper amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and other elements to help Spring blooming grass. But in areas where the soil is already amply supplied, the grass gets too much. Like any living thing, getting too much of an element is often as bad as getting too little.

Be sure to measure and factor in pH - the degree of acidity or alkalinity of your lawn. Lawns like a neutral pH, like that of water. Too acid and you’ll have moss and other grass-crowding growth. Too alkaline and salts get concentrated and water absorption altered.

Keep to a regular fertilizing schedule with an adjustable spreader and your lawn will be green and weeds and insects will be minimized.

Tulip - Mysterious Passion Blend

$19.95

Thinking of tulips we often have the image of a solid red or pink or even yellow cup about the size and shape of a liquor glass. But cultivars number in the thousands and they cover so many colors and styles it would take a volume merely to list them.

There are solid colors, to be sure. But among the most valuable tulips during the Dutch tulipmania of the 1630s were the famed ‘broken tulips’. These flowers had their solid colors broken up by stripes or stipling and - like diamonds with infiltrations of color that might to some experts be considered a flaw - were very highly prized by expert and commoner alike.

Flower sizes vary from the tiny bowl we’re used to all the way to petals that open wide and stretch several inches across. Those petals may be flat, oval or curled. In short, just about anything.

So when it comes to decorating with tulips, the choices are practically unlimited.

Easter is an especially apropos time of the year to put vases of tulips around. Picture a crystal clear vase about ten inches high. Its pure transparency allows the mottled, purplish foliage of some Greigii Tulips to complement the beautiful red of a Red Riding Hood.

As an alternative, selecting a colorful bowl in a complementary color can work wonders. Imagine a Species Tulip with its unusually small blossoms. Clip them close and lay a bunch into a bowl on the table for a beautiful dinner decoration. Persian Pearl are a superior choice for this purpose.

When decorating with flowers don’t think only of appearance, either. One of the best aspects of using flowers to dress up the home or office is that they also provide intoxicating scents. Many tulips will cooperate nicely with that goal.

General de Wet tulips may have a funny name, but they offer a lovely fragrance. Forest Tulips have that name for a reason. Apricot Beauty or Bellona are equally good choices. At Christmas time, go for the Christmas Marvel. That name, too, is well chosen.

No matter which tulip variety you choose, following a few simple guidelines will help you get the most out of them when decorating.

Like any flower used for the home, it’s best to clip or buy them when the buds are still closed. They’ll last longer and you get the added advantage of watching them open.

Cutting the stems at the base the proper way also helps preserve their ’shelf life’ quite a bit. Whenever possible, hold the stem under water at least an inch and a half down. Then cut an inch off the stem with a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears as straight across as you can manage. That prevents air bubbles from blocking water trying to flow up the stem.

One way to ease that operation in some cases is to fill the vase to the top with water, then dip the stems in. You’ll spill a little bit, so do this in the sink or on the counter where you can clean up easily. Then, with the stems still under water but near the rim of the vase, your hands will be better able to get to the stem base for a good, clean cut under the surface.

Super Hero Rose

$27.95

Always make sure that you cut your roses with a sharp and clean pair of shears. Dull shears will crush the rose’s stem, and dirty shears can transmit disease to your other blooms.

Roses store and process their nutrients on a schedule. Hold off cutting your roses until after 3 PM when their nutrient levels are the highest.

It’s too late to cut a bud when it is fully open. Choose buds which have started to open, but are only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process.

Don’t remove all of the leaves from the cut stem. Leave at least 3 to help feed the bloom, but cut off all leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.

Once you have cut all the roses that you will be cutting for the day, bring them inside and start the water conditioning and hardening process.

Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you understand what it takes to keep them alive.

The first threat to a cut rose’s health is the air that it sucked up when you cut the stem outdoors. This little “air pocket” which entered the cut stem works its way up to the bloom where it ultimately shortens the blooms life.

That air needs to be replaced with water. The easiest way to do that is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into, but not scalding hot.

Add whatever floral preservative you use plus a few drops of bleach.

Now place all of the rose stems into the bowl. Do not let the buds touch the hot water.

Use your shears and cut approximately 1/4 inch off the end of each stem and leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.

Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or two of bleach and a bit of preservatives. Then add your roses.

This little bit of extra work, as well as the addition of a few drops of bleach, will extend the vase life of your cut roses longer than you can imagine.

Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill with hot water, add a drop or two of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.

When your bloom begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place the stems into hot water for about an hour before returning them to the vase.

Redleaf Rose

$18.95

The name of this flower is the hybrid tea. The major classes of Old Garden Roses include: bourbons, noisettes, portlands, species, centifolias, albas, chinas, damasks, hybrid perpetuals, moss roses, gallicas, and teas. Although some of these roses are native to the United States, the majority are from Europe and Asia. The roses that are often referred to as “Old Fashioned,” or “Antique Roses,” have actually served as the predecessors to some of the most beautiful modern hybrids.

Unlike Modern Roses, which are applauded for their vibrant colors, compact buds, and recurrent blooming, ‘Old Fashioned’ Roses are usually pastel in color and are single blooming. Their much-anticipated annual blooms have come to symbolize the arrival of summer.

These flowers are true survivors. Most Old Garden Roses are hardy even in some of the coldest and poorest weather conditions. It’s as if they can withstand anything. Their versatility can rarely be matched by other classes of roses. Despite their durability and strength, these roses flourish best when planted in a favorable situation. The roses require a minimum of six hours in direct sunlight on a daily basis. The ideal location for your Old Garden Roses is an open area, away from shade-producing trees. The soil in this area should be well-drained and fertilized prior to planting.

While many people ignore the fertilization process, soil preparation is a very important element in growing healthy beautiful roses. You should add a large quantity of organic material such as manure to the flower bed prior to planting. The fertilizer will enrich the soil and aid in water drainage. It’s highly recommended that you prepare your garden several months in advance to allow the nutrients to settle. Your Old Garden Roses will prosper in this rich environment.

Once your flower bed is prepared, you’re ready to begin planting your roses. Although it’s a little dirty, it’s a very easy task. Dig a hole about eight inches deep. Remove the plant from its plastic pot. Carefully untangle any loose roots and place the plant directly into the hole. Fill any remaining space with loose soil. You won’t need any soil additives at this time. Just be sure to saturate the ground with water. Your new plant will require water on a daily basis for three weeks. If the ground looks like it’s very dry, give your plant a quick shower.

Although many people don’t like the appearance of mulch, it can truly be a gardener’s best friend. Mulch really helps to repel weeds. It’s also great for holding moisture, which encourages your flowers to bloom radiantly in the summer months. Don’t worry about diseases unless you see strange spots on the foliage. Although Old Garden Roses have been known to be disease resistant, it doesn’t mean they’re 100% disease-free. However, it’s very rare that a disease will debilitate these plants. They’re extremely tough and very self-maintaining.

If you’re looking for something new to plant in your rose garden, select any of the Old Garden Rose varieties. The blooms and fragrances will please your senses and are the reasons why these roses have withstood the test of time.